This TRIPLE DVD SET has almost 5 HOURS of highly detailed information! It takes you step-by-step through the entire valve train, including many different types of cams (flat tappet, hydraulic roller, solid roller,), lifters, springs, push rods, various cast iron and aluminum heads and much, much more. You'll be shown how to read a cam card, and how to degree a cam. You'll see what "lift", "duration", "overlap" and "lobe centers" mean, and how they affect your engine. You'll see the difference between aggressive profile cams and mild profile cams and find-out what they do and how to choose the right one for your application. You'll also learn about the different types of lifters, rocker arms, rocker studs, valve springs, retainers, locks, intake and exhaust runners, installing larger valves, installing screw-in studs and guide plates, un-shrouding combustion chambers, gasket matching (heads AND intake manifolds), bowl blending, what tools you'll need and how to use them, O-ring head gaskets, aluminum heads vs. cast iron heads, what you can and can't run on the street, old wives tales and myths put to rest once and for all and MUCH, MUCH more! You'll see numerous types of heads put on a flow bench and tested so you'll see the flow differences between stock heads, mildly ported heads and all-out hard core heads, and everything in-between. If you've ever wanted to know about heads & valve trains, and wanted to see it all first hand and have everything explained to you in great detail, yet plain, easy to understand English, then this is the video for you!

Sample Clips: Preview 1 - Windows Media Player | Quicktime
Sample Clips: Preview 2 - Windows Media Player | Quicktime
 

This double DVD show contains almost 3 1/2 hours of HIGHLY detailed, yet easy to understand information covering numerous brands and types of carbs, including Holley, Edelbrock, Demon, Quick Fuel Technology and Weber (to name a few). Some of the many topics covered include choosing the right carb for your vehicle, single 4 set-ups, 6 pack set-ups, dual 4's, 2 barrels vs. 4 barrels, and much, much more. You'll see how each carb works, including how to modify one for the ultimate performance, and to suit your particular vehicle and driving needs. You'll see how to set, adjust & re-jet. Learn the difference between vacuum secondary's & double pumper's. You'll finally be able to put all of the old wives tales to rest! No more crappy throttle response and problems bogging off the line. You'll learn all of the secrets to selecting and tuning the right carb for your engine!

You'll also see how to rebuild and modify a carb for the best all around performance. You'll learn how chokes work and how to set them, how to tell if you're too lean or too rich, and much, much more! Arron shows you everything you ever wanted to know about performance carbs (and then some), so you won't make the same mistakes most other people make over and over again when they choose the wrong carb for their engine and wonder why their car doesn't run very well. It's well worth spending the money on this video to get the right carb the first time, and know how to set it up so it works the best! This set also includes several pages of very useful carb data and size charts.

Sample Clips: Preview 1 - Windows Media Player | Quicktime
Sample Clips: Preview 2 - Windows Media Player | Quicktime

The following videos will be available in the Spring of 2007:

So you've seen all the ads in magazines and on TV commercials where they claim an air filter swap can add 10 more HP to your engine, or that by using expensive, fancy spark plugs, you can gain an extra 8 horsepower. You've probably seen ads boasting about elaborate ignition systems adding up to 20 extra HP, and oil additives that add 5-10 extra HP. Carbs that can add an extra 40HP. Intake manifolds that add 25 HP. Under drive pulleys that add 15 extra HP. Roller rockers that add 15 extra HP. Carburetor sub stacks that add 15 extra HP. Spacer plates that add 10 HP. Headers that add an extra 30HP, and it goes on and on. No wonder people go around claiming their bone stock 275 HP small block has over 400HP simply because they installed some of those parts and added-up the "gained power" numbers, but in reality, nothing could be farther from the truth, and when they hit the quarter mile track and run a 15.20 and get their doors blown-off by an off the showroom grocery getter, the truth really hurts!

This DVD takes you into a high tech dyno room with a base-line engine, and we dyno each and every after market bolt-on part right in front of you on that same engine, so you can see the actual gain in "real world" horsepower numbers for yourself, not from some outlandish fantasyland numbers found in a magazine ad somewhere. We cover timing, carbs, ignitions, air filters, spark plugs, spark plug indexing, plug wires, carb sub stacks, carb spacer plates, cam changes, rocker arm and rocker ratio changes, head changes, out of the box intake manifolds compared to port matched manifolds, headers, pulleys, advance curve kits, single 4 barrels, dual 4's, different fuels and fuel additives, oil additives and MUCH, MUCH more! This DVD is worth it's weight in gold! Covers both Ford and Chevy engines.
2 hrs. 24 mins.

So you're going to rebuild your engine. Ok then, which parts are you going to use? Are you going to re-use your stock, cast iron crank or flip the bill for an expensive forged steel crank? Do you really need a forged crank? If so, which alloy do you want? What about the radius and oiling holes, and which bearings are suited for which cranks? What about rods? Are you going to re-use your stock rods or are you just going to modify and strengthen your stock rods?, or are you going to buy a set of super strong, after market rods? And if so, which one's are you going to choose to run, I-beam, H-beam, 5140 steel, 4340 steel, aluminum or titanium? Do you know why you would want one type of rod over the other? And what about the rod bearings? Do they all fit the different rods? How about pistons. Cast, hypereutectic or forged? How do you know which one is a good choice and which one is overkill? Are you going to run full floating wrist pins or just pressed pins? How about rings? Cast, single moly, double moly, iron ductile / plasma moly, gapless or how about steel? Have any clue which set you need and why? Ok then, what about the gaps? Are you just going to take them out of the box and stick 'em on? Now onto balancing. Is your set-up an internal or external balanced assembly? Will you need to add heavy metal to the crank or remove weight from the crank?

These questions and MANY more are covered in great detail in this series. You'll see comparisons between all kinds of cranks, rods, pistons, rings, bearings, harmonic balancers, flywheels and flex plates. You'll see what components are good choices to run and what components are not. You'll see how to "match" your system all together for a super strong, smooth running set-up that will withstand the abuse you want to put it through so it'll last a long time and not cost you an arm and a leg in wasted money or end-up as a big pile of twisted metal in the middle of the street. You'll know exactly what to run, and why you want to run it, after watching this video!
2 hrs 39 mins.